THTI
 
 

Analysis of Supply Chains
Andreas Bruckner, Svetlana Mueller and Beata Spitz report on a German project that has produced both a methodology and an IT tool to analyse clothing-industry supply chains

              Identifying and realising the potential for improved collaboration seems to be a matter of some significance to companies already working together in Europe's clothing supply chains. In fact, they are confronted with a number of difficulties in introducing such promising concepts as Supply Chain Management (SCM) technology, which are already successfully established in some other industry sectors.
              In their drive to enhance competitiveness, European clothing companies continually try to take on best practices from the other industries, as well as to look for new ones. The development and implementation of new organisational concepts for the clothing industry have gained even more importance in recent years because of the weak economic situation, loss of sales volume and closure of a large number of clothing firms.
             In order to provide methodological support for the enterprises of the clothing industry, several European and national research projects have so far been initiated, from different institutes. This article is a report on the 'Supply Chain Management in the Clothing Industry' national research project, which was carried out by Research Institute for Operations Management (FIR), at Aachen University of Technology (Germany), in co-operation with the German Research Clothing Association (FB). Scientific know-how and long-standing industry experience in the field of order processing led, through the project, to the practical ~ development of a new logistics concept i for clothing supply chains.
             This project contributed to the improvement of supply-chain collaboration in the clothing sector. The analysis methodology for inter-company order processing was developed within the scope of the project. This will support clothing enterprises in the reorganisation of their logistics processes, as well as in introducing SCM. A variety of companies from the clothing industry took part in the project work, including clothing firms, production plants, suppliers of fabrics and accessories, finishing companies and logistics service providers.

              1. The Need for Reorganisation 1 in Clothing Supply Chains
              The clothing industry is one of the oldest industrial sectors in Germany. Since the 1960s, the German clothing industry has experienced a downturn, as revealed by the number of firms and employees. In 1950, the West German clothing industry had 700,000 employees. By 1997, only 132,000 of the jobs remained in both East and West Germany. The general production decrease and high import rate of textile products dramatically influenced the economic situation of particular clothing companies.
               These and other relevant factors, like strong competition in the fashion industry, a high rate of change and impermanence in this sector, are forcing clothing firms to continuously search for new management approaches and reorganisation measures for their existing supply chains.
                In order to reduce production costs, most clothing firms have already outsourced production of their goods to low-cost countries, and subcontractor companies have taken on some production steps. Thus the structure of clothing supply chains has become even more complex. Not only foreign manufacturing companies, but also a number of different service companies (logistics service providers, textile finishing companies, etc.) are today involved in the clothing supply chains.
                Furthermore, a worldwide trend to the creation and marketing of complex fashion collections has led to additional organisational difficulties. Many clothing companies have been placed in a position where they must operate within several supply chains at the same time. Different production and delivery activities have to be synchronised and streamlined in highly dynamic supply networks.
                Logistics managers from a large number of German clothing companies have been forced to accept the fact, that the old in-company and interplant management methods do not come up to the increasing market demands for dynamic and interdisciplinary supply-chain management. Organisational changes at different levels must be performed in order to stabilise the economic situation in the clothing industry.
               The first project to analyse basic logistics conditions in the clothing industry revealed that all former research and attempted improvement were limited to particular industry sectors such as men's and boys' clothes, or women's outer garments. The prevailing organisational wisdom supported separate logistics management within the above mentioned industry sectors. Synergies, which could be realised by an inter- company supply-chain optimisation, were generally not used.
               Some big companies, like ADIDAS, Gerry Weber or Gardeur, have initiated extensive reorganisation within their internationally spread supply chains. The main goals of these measures were stock and lead-time reduction, delivery service improvement and an increase in logistics flexibility. These enforced supply-chain reorganisations seem to be successful for some fashion leaders. But the important experience, gained in the inter- company projects, has remained mostly as knowledge within certain big companies. Thus, the small and medium-sized enterprises, which account for 95% of all companies in the clothing industry, cannot benefit.
              Taking into account the above- mentioned factors, the lack of an organisational, interdisciplinary and inter-company approach was obvious in the clothing sector. A basic concept was required, that would be useful for the sustainable introduction of SCM in the clothing industry and for efficient management of the flows of material and information in clothing supply chains.
              Therefore the goal of the 'SCM in the Clothing Industry' research project was the development of a methodology for supply-chain analysis, which is especially oriented towards small and medium-sized enterprises. The concept of supply-chain management was taken as an initial basis. The developed methodology should basically contain a supply-chain model to act as a reference process, as well as a methodological procedure for the actual process analysis (al/c analysis) and for the identification of concrete improvement measures.
               In order to simplify supply-chain reorganisation for small and medium- sized companies, a prototype analysis IT tool (OPLIKET) was also developed within the scope of the project. The OPLIKET tool will be described in Chapter 3.2.

               2. Modular Supply Chain Model as Basis for the Analysis Process
               2.1 Identification of the Supply Chain Types
               In order to derive organisational improvement in measures for order processing in existing clothing supply chains, a clear vision of their structure was required. Since the analysis of the actual logistical situation in the clothing industry revealed a number of organisational difficulties, especially at the inter- company interfaces along the supply chains, these interfaces became the main investigation point of the project analysis.
              The specific and varying conditions of the clothing sector, such as fashion, fast-moving, seasonal dependency, etc, have brought about the existence of different order-processing patterns in clothing supply chains, including collection development, continuous replenishment and production for stock. For this reason, a clearly defined classification of order-processing types was worked out, which is based on the analysis of typical similarities and discrepancies between existing order processing types.
               Despite numerous organisational discrepancies between the companies and their supply chains, a set of characteristics was defined, which enables the allocation of analysed company processes to certain order-processing types. Afterwards the most relevant characteristics were chosen and transferred into the description matrix, also called a morphological characteristic scheme (Figure 1).
               Based on the developed morphological scheme, six types of inter-company order processing in the clothing supply chains were derived. Every type results from one typical combination of characteristics and their specifications, clearly describing a specific model of order processing in those particular supply chains.
               An important finding was also that, altogether, three logical phases within inter-company order processing could be derived from the combination of relevant characteristics. These phases are order preparation, procurement/production and distribution.
               The classification of order processing types enabled the subsequent modelling of the logistics processes in clothing supply chains. For this purpose the flows of material and information of the companies accompanying the project were analysed (Figure 2).
                2.2 Development of the Modular Supply Chain Model
                The project investigations reflected high complexity in the inter-company organisation and order processing of the clothing supply chains. The FIR modelling approach was aimed, therefore, at illustrating the manifold forms that clothing supply chains, as well as interfaces between the supply-chain participants, can take (Figure 3).
                 The model created by FIR is divided into three phases (preparation of the order, procurement, production and distribution), which is analogous to the order- processing classification (Chapter 2.1). The individual phases were specified further with the help of different process modules (in Figure 3 - A 1, A2, D1). Thereby three modules were developed for the phase 'order preparation', two for the 'procurement and production' phase as well as one for the 'distribution' phase. The individual modules contain standardised process models of material and information flows within the selected phase. It was important not only to map certain order-processing steps, but also to 'make visible' weak points in the material flow and information flow. In order to give a model user a better oversight of the entire supply chain on the one hand, and to enable a detailed process analysis on the other hand, both generalised process mapping and detailed process mapping were performed (Figure 4).
                  Each process module can be considered as an independent model component, whereas one module of the order processing must be chosen from each phase for the visual representation of an entire supply chain.
                  Altogether six general types of supply chain (with appropriate order- processing types) can be mapped by means of this approach. The model thereby enables a specific analysis of relevant types of order processing arising from a flexible choice of particular modules (Figure 5). Besides the 'As-Is' process models, idealised process models (target models) were developed within the scope of this project as well. These were built according to the same modelling principle as the As-Is process models. The target models can be seen as an organisational proposal for order-processing configuration, which is free from identified As-Is logistics problems in the clothing supply chains (Figure 6).
                 The modular supply-chain model became an important basis for the developed methodology, because the further identification of improvement opportunities and the organisation measures for efficient order processing were based on it. With the help of comparison with the developed As-Is and target models, and by means of additional investigations in the companies participating in the project, improvement opportunities and measures were derived and catalogued.
                The following project steps were dedicated to the development of the analysis concept, required for investigation and reorganisation of clothing supply chains.                 

                3. Analysis concept for collaboration improvement in clothing supply chains
                 Several research methods were applied for further development of the analysis concept. The most important are the general systems theory, model theory as well as decision theory. The combination of these theories made it possible to work out a practical methodology on the basis of information gained in project and literature investigations. The main structural components of the methodology are a set of different models. Every model has its special function in the analysis process and is strongly connected with the other models. The function of the developed models, as well as the form of their correlation, is described in the following chapter.
                 3.1 Components and sequence of the analysis methodology
                 Altogether five models were identified as analysis-methodology components in the scope of this project. The supply chain model(Chapter 2.2), creates a starting point for practical analysis of clothing supply chains. This model enables a visualisation of relevant logistics processes and a determination of initial collaboration conditions of the supply chain. Moreover it gives an idea about important correlations in inter- company order processing.
                 Based on the particular initial situation, the appropriate problem fields can be acquired by
means of the potential model. Afterwards, the most relevant issues are selected and concretised
with the help of the operation model.
                The decision model supports, in turn, selection and prioritisation of measures and instruments, which can i be applied to improve order processing in the analysed supply chain. Decision support is an essential part of the entire analysis methodology. On the basis of users' specific prioritisation of relevant issues, these are allocated to the improvement measures. For this allocation, the method of comparison in pairs is applied. The defined improvement measures can be basically prioritised according to their practical applicability.
                The analysis model is finally responsible for connecting and enabling all models mentioned above.
                Thus the supply-chain model, potential model and operation model are describing models, containing the relevant information for the execution of certain analysis steps. The analysis model can be characterised as an explaining model and the decision model is defined by its title. The essential characteristics of the individual models are shown in Figure 7.
                The sequence of analysis process and the task allocations of particular models are represented in Figure 8. This analysis principle was additionally realised in the prototype OPLIKET tool (Optimisation of modular supply chains in the clothing industry), whose purpose is the implementation of a methodology, as well as the simplification of supply-chain analysis for clothing companies.
                3.2 Supporting tool for the identification of improvement f)otentials in the reorganisation of clothing supply chains
                The OPLIKET tool enables companies in , the clothing industry to independently analyse order processing in their own supply chains. In doing so, the inter- company collaboration aspects as well I as logistics process quality at the interfaces are of basic importance. The OPLIKET tool supports the identification of improvement opportunities and of appropriate organisational improvement measures for different company types (clothing firm, fabric supplier, finisher, etc.) in the clothing sector.
                 In order to provide easy navigation within the tool, a menu-supported interface was designed, which simplifies the analysis process for the user (Figure 9).
                 After a short welcome, the user is asked to answer some questions concerning his company type, supply- chain structure, type of order processing and available information and communication means. Thereby the OPLIKET tool depicts the concrete initial situation of the analysed supply chain. In addition, the user's priorities concerning the order and the Importance of particular analysis issues are inquired into. This helps to a1ign the supply-chain investigation with the relevant company purposes.
                Once the gathering of basic data is complete, the user receives a summarised description of the analysed supply chain and can see the appropriate, selected process model for order processing within this supply chain.
                Afterwards the user is guided through the specially structured questionnaire, whose questions are different, depending on the user's analysis priorities. As soon as all entries are confirmed, the tool starts evaluating the improvement potential, using the developed analysis protocol. The selected issues are then presented to the user with the help of overview templates. In these templates, selected problem fields and improvement measures are specified in the so called "problem improvement measure matrix" (Figure 10). The specified problems and improvement opportunities can be also seen as separate description forms.
                As the last analysis step, the discrepancies between the data entered by the user and the analysis results are examined. In case the user already initiates a proposed improvement measure, but the problems in this analysis field still remain, the IT tool calls the user's attention to practical realisation of this measure. This means, that the initiated improvement activity might be insufficiently realised in that particular company and should therefore be reviewed.

            Exemplary use of the analysis methodology in clothing companies
                The developed analysis methodology and the OPLIKET tool were validated in different companies of the clothing industry, which participated in this research project. It was acknowledged, in three case studies, that the identification of improvement measures for inter-company order processing is efficiently supported by both the methodology and the introduced prototype IT tool. The experts from several clothing-industry companies confirmed that the application of this methodology can effectively contribute to the improvement of clothing supply chains. With the help of the OPLIKET tool, the finding of practical organisational improvement measures can be essentially simplified, which is highly important for the successful introduction of supply-chain management in the clothing industry.

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