Development of Textiles Friendly to Human Beings and the Earth
By Takashi Harada
Ex-Fellow
Toyobo Rearch Center
Our key Phrase in developing all products is to make them friendly to human beings. Clothing is truly a friend to people as it accompanies us wherever we go. So textiles have been developed with this concept kept constantly in mind earlier than all other products. In recent years, development of textiles has utilized the results of research in physiology and psychology. Below 1 will discuss textiles "friendly to human beings" from the perspectives of "comfortability", "cleanliness", "security and safety" and "healing".
The term "friendly to the earth" has also become a core concept in product development, as concern for global environmental issues develops. Textile technologies play the following roles in environmental protection, and creating a comfortable living environment: (1) keeping water clean (water purification, water desalinization, and household water purifiers using hollow fibers), (2) preventing sea pollution (oil fences, separation of oil and water, and membranes to prevent contamination), and (3) preventing atmospheric pollution (bag filters for dust collectors, air purifiers and the like). Asbestos replacement fibers are also being developed. In this sector 1 will discuss recycling of textile products and biodegradable fibers.
Textiles for "Comfortability
The main elements in achieving a feeling of comfort are microclimate within clothing, clothing pressure, and touch on the skin. It is said that people feel a sense of comfort in the clothing they wear when the temperature within the clothing (which is a microspace between the clothing and the skin) is at 32 ± 1o C, and a relative humidity of 60 ± 10%. The role of clothing is to maintain a feeling of comfort by encouraging or preventing the transfer of heat and moisture depending on external environmental conditions (such as temperature, humidity, wind, rain, snow, sunlight), as well as human activity (quiet or moving).
There is extensive development of warmth-retentive materials for the purpose of preventing heat loss when it is cold, as well as waterproof and breathable materials to prevent penetration of rains. We have also developed specialized materials with improved moisture and water-absorbing properties, to absorb perspiration and dry quickly when the weather is hot. In addition to chemically modified hydrophilic synthetic fibers, there are also significant results that can be achieved with aggregate combinations of fibers, and for this reason multi-layered yams and knitted fabrics have been developed.
Moreover, in answer to rising concerns over global environmental issues several, companies began sales of shirts in the summer of 1999 that provide a feeling of comfort to wearers even when air conditioning is set to 28o C.
New methods for measuring sensations continue to be developed, and with these methods new materials appear on the scene. This method takes into account basic research including thermal physiology, which seeks to explain the mechanisms for adjusting body temperature.
Next I would like to discuss stretch materials, as they relate to clothing pressure. In an earlier age baseball uniforms were made from cotton woven fabrics, and had a baggy style. This was followed by knitted fabrics made of elastic textured yam, which created the body fitting style seen today. This reflects a formula in which <the stretch of the skin> = <the looseness of the fabric> + <the slippage between the fabric and the skin> + <the stretch of the fabric materials>. If the fabric materials have little stretch, the fabric will put pressure on the skin, which is referred to as clothing pressure. Clothing pressure differs depending on the body location, but in any event causes discomfort to the wearer when it reaches a certain level. Stretch fabrics are thus used to allow a wearer to not experience tension even with clothing that fits close to the skin and does not have any looseness.
Textile for "Cleanliness"
Cleanliness is a key concept that must be taken into consideration to engage in a comfortable daily life, and textiles for "cleanliness" have been developed with this in mind. They consist of the following: (1) antibacteriallodor-preventing products that combat the growth of bacteria and prevent odors, (2) microbial controlling products that prevent the growth of microbial on fibers (for which the Japanese Association for the Functional Evaluation of Textiles (JAFET) has deter- mined testing methods and standards), (3) deodorant materials that use chemical or physical means to change noxious substances using chemicals or to absorb odors, (4) antimite materials and (5) soil-release materials.
Textile for "Security and Safety"
This category includes materials with superior antistatic properties and conductive properties to prevent damage from static electricity, flame-retardant materials (although smoke and combustion fumes @resent issues for materials which are used in vehicles, as well as under- ground walkways), as well as electromagnetic wave shielding materials.
Materials for "Healing"
With the frequent stress and uncertainty that many people feel, in recent years there has been a focus of attention on healing materials that give a feeling of relaxation to wearers
There are essentially two approaches to creating these materials. The first involves minerals and natural materials that encourage the activity and health of human beings (thereby providing a healing effect), with these substances kneaded into fibers or attached to the materials in the finishing process. Nevertheless, it is difficult to measure the physiological effect that these materials have on the human body. The second approach involves taking into account natural rhythms (including l/f fluctuation and fractal rhythms) to create a feeling of relaxation, concentrating on achieving visual effects.
Recycling of Textile Products
For many years secondhand clothes and wastes have been used as a means to recycle textile products. In addition, the following new methods are being developed: thermal recycling, including generating electricity from the heat generated at the time of combustion; chemical recycling (in the case of nylon-6), which uses a chemical process to return materials to their original ingredients; and material recycling, in which the products are melt by heating, and new products are produced.
The recycling of PET bottles is a prominent example of recent efforts. PET bottles are melted and re-used as polyester fiber material. The resulting products not only include staple fibers, but also filaments.
Biodegradable Fiber
Biodegradable fibers decompose through the action of microorganisms in the ground, into water, carbon dioxide and others. Examples that have been developed include fibers made from fatty acid polyester such as polylactic acid and polycaprolactam. As of the present, there are still issues that must be addressed in finding fibers that will gain wide acceptance, including the price at which these fibers can be made available.
Key factors in achieving success during research and development include "running to extremes ...... combining" and "achieving software." Development of functional textiles will continue to progress on the basis of these three key concepts. It is also true, however, that human beings are the end users of textiles, and for this reason fabrics must satisfy human demands for sensuousness. Functionality is only accepted when it is converted to sensation' By reducing the thickness of fabrics, under- wear that is not lumpy has become a hit product. This is a fruit of improved warmth-retention of the textile. Stretch fabrics also became attractive as garments that could express a refined feel.
In this manner, textiles that are "friendly to human beings and the earth" will no doubt develop even further in the future.